New York cheesecake at Muffin Taffin in Budva

On a cool November afternoon in Budva, Muffin Taffin cuts New York cheesecake for coffee: a dense American dessert, not a light mousse.

A cream-cheese cake from the United States

New York cheesecake took shape in the United States after cream cheese became a common dairy product in the late nineteenth century. Older European cheesecakes often used ricotta or fresh curd; this one rests on a smooth, rich filling and a biscuit crumb crust.

By the middle of the twentieth century the tall slice was a New York restaurant classic. Junior's in Brooklyn, open since 1950, became a reference for the taste many people still expect: barely sweet, heavy with cheese, set but not dry.

The method is patient. Cream cheese is beaten smooth, then sugar, eggs, and a little sour cream or cream go in. The tin often sits in a water bath until the center only shivers, and the cake cools slowly so it does not crack.

Montenegro stays cool in November, so Muffin Taffin takes orders for this cheesecake and for other cakes. Sales often mean a whole cake for a family table or neat slices after a walk on the promenade.